Known for his in depth researches, this time the designer studies took him from classic mosaics, to 1950’s Brazilian tile works, through stain glass and arriving at broken and smashed windows and glass panels, which brought the collection an always present element of “danger”.
The craft and experiment with these concepts sparked some striking results. They include:
· A cracked glass effect made from laser-cut acrylic that is completely bendable during walking
· A destroyed/marbled looking soles made from vulcanized rubber and textiles
· See-through effect done on mesh-like bonded leather
· Resin and lacquer treatments on material surfaces
· Embroidery and digital print onto leather based on reinterpretations of mid-century Brazilian art
This season is also highlighted by the offering of styles that are well suited for holiday and vacation time, be it in the city or seaside. Never loosing the originality and chic appeal of any Vanassibara design, these summery propositions are sure to become a hit and ever present in the feet of those “in the know”.
*Trincado, in Portuguese (Diego’s mother tongue), means “cracked”, “fractured”.
The Hoist, in London, is a place where guys go for some hedonistic adventures. And it is that notorious venue and its mood that have served as the inspiration for this installation, which kindly borrows its name from the aforementioned club.
In design and fashion, bondage, fetish, masochism among others are often delivered with a dark and serious undertone. Vanassibara, however, as a good Brazilian, sees things from a more jocose manner bringing some “approachability” to beginners in the field.
The collection is a high energy, full of originality and powerful one. Yes we can expect plenty of dark hues, mostly black, but they are attenuated by the insertion of metallic’s that refract the light and add a sense of movement to the shoes. Surfaces are shiny, sometimes glossy, and the silhouettes slick with great proportion. Razor sharp cuts are a given and precision is everywhere.
The soles are extra chunky and there’s more interaction this time between the upper and the soles. Some styles feature removable belts that go under a gap between heel and platform or around the heel itself. One style in particular lets the wearer style the long belt around ankle and arrange it on the shoe according to the many snap buttons available. Mesh of belts and buckles is also a feature present in shoes and weekenders too.
London, June 2015. Diego Vanassibara, a Brazilian designer based in England for ten years, launches a new shoe collection in London Collections Men (LCM), London’s men’s fashion week, by raising a serious alert against the deforestation of the Amazon jungle, which not only threatens the balance of the global climate, but also the life of native cultures that depend on the rainforest for survival.
The protest comes to life in his art. Vanassibara created an installation, called The Crying Forest, together with model maker William Murray. It is made of sustainable Birch trees sourced from a Scottish charity, and insertions of hundreds of transparent acrylic spears. The idea is to represent a forest dramatically lacerated, with the acrylic forming the tears of the trees that are crying following the destruction of their forest. His collection of shoes, in turn, has been inspired by the art and the customs of the Native peoples of Brazil, whom often are ignored in their country for lack of public interest, discrimination and ignorance by many, despite being the true guardians of the forests and embody in their very existence the priceless living culture and history of Brazil.
With a poetic tone, using the languages of art and design, Vanassibara is about to showcase his message to the VIP’s of international media and fashion industry on schedule of this major event of men’s fashion calendar. The opening reception will happen on the first day of LCM, on Friday 12th June, when the designer will host a reception with the whisky HAIG CLUB™, partly owned by David Beckham, to celebrate the launch of Vanassibara’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection. The showcase is being sponsored by British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN MEN programme, where Vanassibara is the first and only shoe designer to have received this coveted prize.
Thank you for the article. Thank you in special to the author Patricia Gomes @palion
The elements – especially the extreme ones – were very much on Diego Vanassibara’s mind for autumn winter 2015. Looking to the skies he imagined his collection of hand-made beautifully crafted yet robust shoes and boots had been exposed to a tumultuous storm. Struck by lightning – flashes of silver on buckles and zips – or damaged by hail as seen on pebbled leathers. Raindrops are translated into hand embroidered details on a lace up oxford. At the same time, parts of this AW collection are entirely fit for wintery wet conditions – waterproof zips, rain resistant leathers, chunky heels and rubber soles are seen throughout. The colour palette was also inspired by stormy weather and forboding clouds. Black and dark greys pervade the collection while navy blue enhances a brushed leather boot with a moulded sole. A softer sand colour appears on loafers while a weekender shoe catches the eye in brilliant white. Signature Diego Vanassibara details such as lacquered wood accessories (worked by a veteran Rolls Royce lacquer specialist), platform heel and exquisitely finished lightweight soles feature throughout the collection and the more rugged, hard wearing brogues sit next to a super elegant, formal style oxford made from a glossy brushed leather. Edges are raw while leathers are precision cut, angles acute. Detail with stylish functionality is paramount.
A recipient of the highly coveted NEWGEN MEN initiative from The British Fashion Council and TOPMAN and winner of the Footwear Friends Awards, a similar prize from the British Footwear Association, Vanassibara is part of a generation of young designers who are shaping the landscape of men’s fashion and a force in the world’s footwear scene. His designs are available at selected designer boutiques and department stores in four continents. Diego has also a commercially successful and ongoing shoe collaboration with Japanese shoe maestro Mihara Yasuhiro.